Sunday, July 20, 2014

Oregon surf photos

I had some fun sessions - it was mostly smaller surf but it was just nice to get in the water after bicycling.  The surfmat has been super fun at every spot (plus the longboarding session but no water photos from that). 
My water camera stopped working in my last two sessions.  Maybe the water was too cold (the water temperature dropped a lot and made for some chilly sessions).
The wind and tide didn't work well for me as I cycled further down the coast... This is largely due to me not optimizing for surf.  I try to surf at the end of a day rather than in the morning.  In the AM I practice Tai Chi, Chuan, meditate, and pack up.  So I miss the morning surf session when the wind is usually lower.  However  lugging around a wet wetsuit all day on a bicycle is pretty laborious - so end of the day is preferable though it means a greater chance of blown out conditions. :).


  1. Enjoying following you in your blog. Looks like some clean surf on this session. Looking forward to pics and stories from a really clean session. Although you had a fun dancing session, remember the feeling from a really good surf session; you can't compare.

  2. Thanks, Steve. It makes sense that it's you to remind me about how awesome surfing is, since you were the one who got me back in the water after I was landlocked overseas all those years. If I really score good waves on this trip, will make sure to post. :)

  3. Peter:

    This is wonderful! So glad you did this. Lovely photos! Stochastic process sent me Googling for answers.